Water Waves (5.10c)

The author steps up onto the nearly invisible hold prior to the second crux

(Photo by Sue Cashman)

Water Waves is an exciting and technical climb in its grade. The challenge begins with the very first move...

The climb begins with an overlap followed by a nearly three foot bulge, whose imposing nature is weakened only by a diagonal incipient crack and a small triangular hole. If you are a ten climber, first glance at this problem is dishartening. So is the learning experience.

At first, I wanted to try to take it straight on. There is a small flat hold at the edge of the bulge, and I thought that might work. But the problem is that the overlap at the bottom prevents most low footwork, and the top of the overlap is high enough to discourage a high step, especially with the edge of the bulge out of reach to anyone except a genetically enhanced basketball player. Still, I tried. And fell, and fell. And fell.

So I took note of the triangular slot under the bulge, which turned out to be a secret hold. But how to get the footwork started?

Mike was very patient with me as I tried to work all of this out. Still, he must have wondered at the lunacy of coming back again and again to solve the first move.

A foot on a tongue thrust out from where the crack intersects the overlap turned out to be the footwork key, and a perfect hold to the left and a flat sidepull in the crack turned out to be the solution to the hand problem.

But for a long time, I stepped on the tongue and threw a foot above the overlap, braced on a high vertical edge with that foot and pulled to a stand, simultaneously shifting my left hand into the triangular opening under the bulge for an undercling and leaning back. The foot position had to be just right, with the knee cocked out left. The body position was low and cocked severly to the left until the undercling was attained.

But then I made my error. I performed three dynos with the right hand onto features barely thrust from the crack. This worked a few times, but the success ratio was very low, and the energy consumed was so high that I couldn't keep trying more than a few times.

Still, when that approach finally got me through the bulge, I thought it was the answer. It wasn't until a year later that I discovered the right way.

The right was was to use a slightly lower foot position above the overlap, smearing a small dish on the right side as I came to a stand. Then a brief hop of the left foot to gain a few inches on the tongue, a backfoot on the right vertical edge, and the right arm circling up to an excellent horizontal pinch at the edge of the crack. Next a step to the first left handhold, and then a backfoot on that hold to reach up left to a small v-shaped notch at the edge of the upper ledge above the bulge. Then rematch the feet on the right side, and step up the right foot onto a nearly invisible hold on a block across the crack (see photo above). Bring the left foot up as high as possible under the bulge. There is a place to stem, but it is impossible to see it. At that point, lean to the right as far as possible and nail the biggest hold on the edge of the crack. Bring the left foot back to the block above the right foot and step the right foot up into a huge hole to the right. At this point, the giant holds below the rest ledge are within reach.

The rest ledge is huge, and you'll need it. Especially since the largely blank, overhung wall above is almost as intimidating as what passed below. But where the initial climbing required strength, speed and sequencing, this section will require finesse, balance, contact strength, and patience.

There are no weaknesses in the center, and if you want to turn this climb into a hard 11, go for it. Otherwise, go right or left. I prefer the right, so that's what I'll tell you about.

There is a large flake, which simplifies the opening moves. But one atop it, the easy part ends. Now there is an incipient crack with a shallow triangular pod - yes, rounded - near its top, and barely within reach. This is where it starts. Feet must move with careful delicacy on very shallow slashes on the face below, while the hands stay at the limits of their reach above, in a slow and odd hand traverse to the left. A crack downslants to the left, but first there is a squarish knob, and some foot movement, an inch at a time, and then room for a finger joint of three fingers in the crack. More footwork, and suddenly a good hold for your hands. The problem is, you discover that there are almost no footholds left, and the blank face cuts in below you. Get cocky now, and your feet cut off into space, and you'll probably have to fall. Be patient. Work your feet. Finally, a cruel mantle, with a weird reach crossed above the head, and then the left foot up, and a hard push to a near stand. Then, slowly, some fiddling to stand on the narrow ledge. Get a rest while you can. It isn't over yet...

The work here is almost straight up, and almost indescribable. There are a number of sidepulls and a few high steps with marginal handholds. You'll surely make noise doing these moves. And then, when you're almost at the top, after a brief interval of relief, it will suddenly be blindingly hard for a few moves, and if you haven't rested, you'll fall.

But, if you don't, you'll have made it...